July 2: Thursday: Bow River Flood in Canmore
Nice view from a high point in Canmore - Bow River, mid-picture
If I had $200 for every night I've slept in Canmore... Of all of the places I've stayed in Canada, Canmore wins the prize for most times. I discovered Canmore back in the mid-80's on my first trip to Banff. I had ridden my bike up from Cochrane, hoping to make it to Banff in one day, and decided that plan was too ambitious, so I found a place to stay in this Park Boundary town (just outside the main Park entrance). Back then in comparison to the Banff townsite, I remember Canmore being a smaller, and quieter place. With development over the years, Canmore is nearing twice the size of the Banff townsite now. And as I discovered this year, it is still growing with lots of new construction along the Three Sister's Parkway. Canmore often means traffic jams, as the old streets struggle with the new volumes of traffic coming off of the TransCanada highway. Canmore now is one of the most expensive mountain communities in North America. The median price for a house is $1.3 million, Canadian.
After crossing the raging Bow River, this portion of the TCT runs along the west bank of the Bow River for several miles. It is paved, and well-used by pedestrians and cyclists alike. Along its route there are interpretative signs and I stopped to read some of them. I find out that Canmore started as a coal mining town, as have been a number of towns we've travelled through this year, like Elko, Sparwood, and Fernie, although none of them are relying today on coal mining. Where its available, hydroelectric power seems a much better option. From a sign I read that there are about a dozen hydro plants along the Bow River, all producing varying amounts of power. The Canmore power plant produces the most power, among plants on this river. Here in Canmore in addition to the Bow River, Canmore also is able to derive energy from the Spray Lakes Reservoir, which is now on the other side of that 100 mile roadblock. Canada, which seems to be more environmentally conscious than the US, (for example, paper straws and wooden eating utensils), is not turning back to "beautiful, clean coal". I wish my country's leadership would match Canada's commitment to the environment, smh.
Today the Bow River is at flood stage, due to all of the rain we've encountered in the past several days. Normally the Bow River here is placid, and there is a touring company that offers float trips down the Bow. These would be the calm relaxing type of float trips. I had considered that this might be a fun activity for Audrey and me. I'm sure none of them were on the river this week. Below there is a photo of a bicycle underpass under water. It turns out that this flood stage of the Bow River, along with other local streams would have an impact on my journey!
When bicycling in mountainous areas, the only flat and level routes are invariably along streams, and as the TCT begins to depart the Bow River, I find myself climbing the lowest flanks, as the town tries to dig out more territory from the mountains that combine to form the western edge of the town. In order: The East End of Mt Rundle, Ha Ling Peak with its hiking route to the summit, Mt Laurence Grassi, with the highest summit of the massif and named Ehagay Nakoda by the Stoney Nakoda, and finally the famous Three Sisters. I try to commit them to memory for the next time I am here. I don't make much of an inroad against this formidable barrier but eventually I get to an elevation, 200 feet above the river. I get a nice picture of the Canmore area. And then, STOP. My trail ends at a chain link fence. Its a fence I could get the bike around, but there is also a no trespassing sign. In my younger days, I may have ignored the sign and forged onward. But today I turn around 180 degrees and start the trip back. Turns out the TCT just has a dead end here, and the trail continues on as a water trail. More on that tomorrow.
Canmore's Three Sisters
My path today - Three Sisters, background right
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