June 20: Crowsnest Pass: Sparwood to Coleman

 

Crowsnest Pass

Today we achieved a milestone on the trip across Canada.  It has taken me several years longer than I first expected (if I can really say I expected to make it this far), we put a wrap on British Columbia, and enter the second province - Alberta!   It was around a 1000 foot climb to get to the top of the Crowsnest, but it was easier than I expected.  I had a nice road to ride the shoulder, as BC 3 becomes Alberta 3.  The grade was mild, and  I had  nice weather.  Crowsnest Pass is the lowest elevation pass that crosses the Canadian Rockies, and so it seemed like I got off rather easy.  (No worries: there would be more passes in the future, and harder.)  

Reaching Alberta, I took some time to reflect on my tour of British Columbia.  There was definite intent when I started the trip to cross Canada from west to east.  I had no idea how far I would make it across Canada - still don't really know that!  They talk about the prevailing westerly winds, and I believe most cyclists cross Canada from west to east for that reason. Also, and more importantly, I think BC is going to be the most scenic of all the provinces, and I thought it wise to see the best scenery first.  

It was the right decision.  The variety of scenery in BC is unmatched, I think.  I remember the Galloping Goose trail in Victoria, and the Butchart Gardens. My first mountain on Vancouver Island, the Malahat Summit.   I marveled at the size and height of the Kinsol Trestle and the beauty of the Cowichan Valley, and the ferry trip from Vancouver Island to the mainland.  The sprawling city of Vancouver, Stanley Park and crossing the Lions Gate.  The Golden Ears bridge, and finding out that the ferry across the Fraser no longer operates.   Then the Fraser River Valley and the town of Hope, where it seems to rain all of the time.  Travelling up the Coq, and recognizing the area of the Highway Through Hell cable TV program, and meeting Jamie Davis, the main character of the show at a restaurant.  The wilderness of my ride through Brookmere, and arriving late to Tulameen, where somebody hung some huge googly eyes in a tree. 

 Maybe the most surprising scenery of all was  in the Okanagan Valley,  Penticton, and all of the wineries and fruit orchards, and the deep blue hue of the lake.  The climb up to Chute Lake and finding ourselves on a deteriorating logging road with our rental CruiseAmerica RV.  The  18 trestles  of Myra Canyon and the Kettle Valley rail trail. The beauty of the Granby River from way above Grand Forks.  Crossing farmers' fields  and opening then closing gates to pass from one field to the next.  The snake I almost stepped on - probably a rattler, and how every grey stick looked like a snake after that.    Christina Lake followed by the Bulldog tunnel and my first glimpse of the Columbia River near Castlegar.  Taking the road to Nelson, because the trail was impossible, even though the TransCanada Trail website said it was in good condition for biking.  Crossing the Monashees and the Selkirks, arriving in the cute town of Nelson on Kootenay Lake, where Roxanne was filmed on location.  The sailboats on Lake Kootenay, and crossing the Mountain Time Zone at Gray Creek.  Yes, I was finally getting somewhere!

Visiting Riondel, the little hamlet that had a mission church, post office, one store, one restaurant, a curling club, a golf course, and nothing much more.  The beauty of Lake Kootenay, along the detour on Highway 3A.  Then the mountains started to get serious, as I crossed the Purcells, the final range before the Rockies.  A huge ice cream cone at Yahk, and a rainy arrival, finally in Cranbrook.  Arriving in Wardner and seeing Lake Koocanusa, and finding out that there are no flat and level segments of the TCT in this area.  Learning that every trail starts with a serious ascent, and finding out that the TCT in the Rockies means mountain bike trails, and tough ones at that.

BC has been much more than I expected.  Maybe someday I will try to add up the miles I travelled in BC; I know it is well over 1000.  If I make it no further on the TransCanada Trail, I really feel like I have already experienced fully what it means to be Canadian.

So Audrey and I celebrate with pictures as we cross the boundary into Alberta, and anticipate what the Canadian Rockies will serve up for us.

A gentle mountain ridge

Highway 3 gives me a nice shoulder to travel and of course gorgeous views

We leave BC and celebrate our entry in a new province

Start elevation (and lowest): Sparwood:  3750 feet

Highest elevation:  Crowsnest Pass :  4759 feet

End elevation:  Coleman, AB:  4380 feet

23 miles